The capital of Romania feels like Paris with a hangover. Wide boulevards, spacious squares and elegant high-rise buildings from the early 20th century give it a French flair.
A city trip to Bucharest
The hangover stems from the turbulent relationship the city has had with the last communist leader of the country, Nicolae Ceauşescu. During his reign, many historic buildings had to make way for Soviet-style grey structures. An earthquake in 1977 with a magnitude of 7.4 on the Richter scale finished the job.
Since there was no place for religion in communist teachings, leaders of the Orthodox Church were given the choice to move their churches to another part of the country or destruction of the building. In the first case, this meant that the church was put on train tracks and rebuilt somewhere in a corner of Romania. The alternative was the demolition of the church. About 300 churches in Bucharest made a lucky escape. Ultimately, “only” 17 were completely destroyed, according to our guide.
Other buildings and even entire neighbourhoods were less fortunate, they had to give in to the politics of systematization of Ceauşescu. The most famous, or rather, the most notorious result of his policies is the ‘House of the People or the Casa Poporului.
1. Casa Poporului or Parliament Palace
The Parliament Palace is the third largest building in the world after the Pentagon in the United States and the Winter Palace in Lhasa. It has over one thousand rooms. All materials used in the construction and decoration are Romanian, with marble from the Carpathians. The silk carpets and giant chandeliers were all made locally.
Right in the historical and geographical centre of Bucharest stands an impressive building that strikes the eye by its particular style. It is the Palace of the Romanian Parliament, a “giant” built during the “golden age” of the dictatorial regime and born in the mind of a man for whom the notion of “reasonable size” did not exist.
Source website Parlement Palace
This megalomaniac brainchild of Ceausescu’s is 350,000 M², it has twelve floors above and eight below ground. The chandelier in the 600 seat theatre is gigantic. According to our guide, it takes four men to change a light bulb and no, this is not a joke. The building has 2800 hanging lamps and chandeliers. Everything here is big, bigger and biggest. Despite the huge empty areas in the building the atmosphere is oppressive. One can feel the soul of the former Romanian leader still wandering the premises in search of his next victim.
Parts of the palace are open to the public. Some of the rooms can be rented for events such as conferences and concerts. Tourists can visit the building after handing in their passport, knives and other weapons (I know). The security at the entrance is similar to that of an airport. Everyone must go through a scanner. When the alarm sounds, there is a physical examination. In my case (female) it was performed by a discreet and friendly policeman. The tour takes place in groups, the guide speaks English. The palace is open daily from 10:00 to 16:00. The last tour departs at 15.30. It is usually very busy, so to be sure of a place make a reservation in advance:
Phone: + 40-21-311 36 11; + 40-21-414 14 26 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
The standard entry fee is 13 Lei per person (April 2015). For the latest information, discounts, extras and access for disabled see the website. It is forbidden to take pictures, however, for 30 Lei you can snap freely.
2. Cotroceni Palace
The former Royal Palace Cotroceni, is now a national museum with over 20,000 works of art. Personally, I think the building is more interesting than the art on display. The original building was built between 1679 and 1681 by Prince Şerban Cantacuzino. His successors grew and extended the palace further. During the communist period, it was initially used as a training institution, after the 1977 earthquake it was restored in its former glory as a guest palace.
Just the old wing and the modern orthodox church (in the courtyard) are open to visitors. The rest of the building is used as presidential areas. This also explains the extreme security measures at the entrance. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9:30 a.m. to 17:30 pm. Given the fuss it is advisable to make a reservation at least one day in advance by telephone: 021.317.31.07 or by mail. email@example.com .
Foreigners pay 27 lei standard entrance (for discounts and the latest information see the website of the palace). Note filming and photographers pay extra. You will also be required to hand in your ID/passport at the entrance.
The palace is situated on the Bulevardul Geniului 1.
3. Atheneum or Ateneul Româ
The Atheneum is a concert hall in neoclassical style from 1888, designed by a French architect. The interior has romantic elements, lots of marble and a special fresco (75-3 meters) in the concert hall.
A visit to the Athenaeum is free, if there are no concerts, that is.
Address: 1-3 Franklin Street, Sector 1
4. Carturesti Carusel bookshop
Carturesti Carusel, also named the “Carrousel of Light”, is a historic bank building from the 19th century, which has been transformed into an architectural gem. The building is located in the centre of Bucharest, in a lively area with cafes, restaurants and luxury shops. Today it functions as a bookstore, it has six floors with more than 10,000 books. On the top floor is a bistro, in the basement a multimedia room and a gallery. The first floor is dedicated to modern art.
The address of the bookstore is Strada Lipscani 55.
5. St.Nicholas Church
The St. Nicholas Russian Church is a small picturesque building with seven domes. It is located in the centre of the city, near University Square. The church was built in 1905 on the initiative of the Russian ambassador and was intended for the employees of the embassy and other Russians in Bucharest. Admission is free. Inside it is forbidden to take pictures.
The address is Strada Blănari.
6. Hanul lui Manuc
Hanul lui Manuc is the oldest inn in town until recently used as such. The building dates back to 1808. Around the middle of the 19th century, this was Bucharest’s main commercial complex with 15 wholesalers, 23 shops and 107 rooms for offices and housing. Now it houses several restaurants and cafes.
The complex is still largely in its original state. An ideal film location, during my visit a historical film was recorded (see picture below).
Inside the court, you will find a restaurant ( Manuc’s Inn), renovated in the 19th-century atmosphere. The Address is 62-64 strada Franceza. It is opposite the ruins of the Curtea Veche.
7. Curtea Veche
The first royal court of Bucharest was built in the 15th century, during the reign of Vlad Ţepeş. – Vlad, also known under the name Dracula. He was the one who inspired Bram Stoker to write a book about vampires. It is possible to visit the castle in Transylvania, where the story is set. It is a day trip from Bucharest.
The citadel was once the court of Wallachia province, now only ruins remain.
Those who dare to look under the ruins of the 20th century can still find architectural gems in Bucharest
The real jewels of Bucharest are the Romanians. Within the European Union, this is one of the poorest countries. However, In terms of hospitality and friendliness of the locals it is one of the richest member states That is probably the reason that after a couple of days in this city, Bucharest gets under your skin.
So go crazy and try talking to a Romanian. It’s surprisingly easy, as the capital’s residents generally speak good English.
Practical information for your city trip to Bucharest
- Bucharest Walkabout Free Tour is an organization that offers free city tours;
- If you stay for a couple of days and want to make the most out of your money, consider buying the Bucharest Tourist Card, thus saving up to 50% on entrance fees;
- Eating For good food try The Harbour on Str. Piaţa Amzei 10-22;
- Nightlife, Eleven Social club is a nightclub, suitable for 30+. It is a nice place for those who like seeing topless girls dancing on the bar;
- Currency Although Romania is a member of the EU, it still has its own currency, the Lei (April 2015). At the time of writing the exchange rate was around 4.4 Lei for one Euro;
- Transport Taxis are cheap and metered, count on 1:39 lei per kilometre;
- Traffic. The city suffers from bad traffic congestion. Keep this in mind when planning to go to the airport.
- I stayed (by invitation) at the Intercontinental Hotel Bucharest. This is an excellent four star hotel in the center of town.
Follow this blog