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Rotterdam, the perfect city break in the Netherlands
Why is Rotterdam so much more interesting than Amsterdam? Where can you get a good meal? What are the best things to do in Rotterdam? How do you recognize a Rotterdammer*? Which attractions are worth seeing? What challenges do you find here? Where do you find special places to sleep?
In short, in this blog, you get answers to all kinds of questions, which you probably did not realize you had.
Let’s start with the first question.
Why is Rotterdam so much more interesting to visit than Amsterdam, the latter after all being the capital of the Netherlands?
For starters, the historic city centre of Amsterdam has lately become more of a 17th-century theme park, packed with hordes of tourists clogging it up, whilst Rotterdam’s spacious heart is still a place for the Rotterdammers.
Although the city does not have a special reputation in international tourism yet, there is plenty to see, especially in urban development. The Rotterdam centre has a number of modern architectural delights – thanks to our eastern neighbours, who created space at the beginning of WWII by bombing the cities heart.
With 634,000 inhabitants it is a big city for the Netherlands, but on a global scale, it is a small one. This has the advantage that the centre is easy to explore on foot If your mobility is limited, that should not hold you back from visiting this city, because every five meters you will find a metro station/waterbus and/or tram stop.
Rotterdam is the largest port city in Europe, the Erasmus University attracts international students and because of immigration, 38% of the population of Rotterdam has a non-Western immigrant background. Which makes it an international city, enterprising, raw, worldly, ground-breaking and no-nonsense.
Right, on to the other questions.
Where can you get a good meal? What can you do in Rotterdam? How do you recognize a Rotterdammer? Which attractions are worth seeing? What challenges do you find here? Where do you find special places to sleep?
I will give the answers below, following a more or less logical route through the city starting with an artistic highlight although some (that is me) might call it a lowlight.
#1 Santa Claus
Santa Claus is a statue created by Paul McCarthy, no, not the ex-Beatle, but an artistically challenged American artist. Santa Claus, the statue, represents Santa who has a Christmas tree in his hand. The statue is referred to as ‘gnome butt plug’ by the locals.
For the purchase of the artwork, the city has forked out a whopping € 200,000.
When spending such an amount of money, it begs a few questions, such as:
- What is a butt plug?
Although I can imagine more or less what a butt plug does, the real ins and outs (pun intended) are somewhat fuzzy. In cases like this, one has two options:
- ask an internet-savvy teenager;
- ask Google.
Both answers fall into the category T.M.I., too much information.
But more importantly,
- What were they thinking?
If you have finished wondering what exactly led the local authorities to this baffling purchasing decision, walk over to the other side of the square to relax with a cup of coffee from a former rascal.
Heilige Boontjes (Holy Beans) is a coffee shop, in the traditional sense of the word. A place where you can actually buy coffee, more about that later (see #13).
The store is housed in a historic building on the Eendrachtsplein. The baristas are young people with a criminal past, who are about to return to society. In short, by drinking a cappuccino (€ 3.25) you help a youngster towards a new future. A nice initiative, in a beautiful environment.
And as icing on the cake, you can also confess your sins here in the “Confession Guestbook”.
So if you secretly desire that gorgeous neighbour or if you stole candy from the local grocery store, you can get absolution here. And if you are, like me, without sins you can always throw the first stone. Of course, there is the risk that the police decides to give you a criminal record because of jeopardizing your fellow man, but if you have always wanted a career as a barista, then you know where to go.
If this raises too many religious associations then opt for something completely different, go find a Hot Tug.
#3 Hot Tug & # 4 Watertaxi
The HotTug is a wood-fired hot tub in which you can sail through Rotterdam in steaming hot water. A brilliant idea and one I would certainly have liked to experience during my visit were it not that my body has yet to achieve that perfect bikini shape before the summer (± 10 kilos, as in more plus than minus) before I dare to expose it to the public.
However, if you are in a similar predicament, there is no need to panic, as there are countless other possibilities to enjoy aquatic pleasures in Rotterdam.
In a water taxi, you can fly low through the city to dozens of jetty locations in Rotterdam. Make sure to call the taxi in advance (T +31 10 403 03 03), otherwise, you might have to wait half an hour for your transport. Prices are from 4.50 per person.
Alternatively, if you are more the type that appreciates a quiet ambience, visit the SS Rotterdam.
#5 SS Rotterdam & #6 Hotel New York
The SS Rotterdam is a historic steamship from 1959, formerly used by the Holland-America Line. The Holland-America line was till 1989 a Dutch cargo line and cruise line operating primarily between the Netherlands and North America. Now it is a British/ American owned cruise line.
The SS Rotterdam is now permanently docked at Katendrecht. On the Lido deck you can enjoy a fantastic view and if the weather is good, you can take a dip in the pool. There is also the possibility to stay overnight on the ship.
Speaking of the Holland-America Line:
The emblematic Hotel New York on the Wilhelminapier is located in the former seat of the Holland-America Line. The building dates from 1901. The hotel opened in 1993.
#7 Fotomuseum Rotterdam
The Fotomuseum in Rotterdam literally own millions of images. The museum shows photography in all its facets: documentary and experimental, contemporary and historical. In addition to exhibitions with big names from the Dutch and international photography world, the museum regularly shows work from its own collection. You can also visit the media library, the cafeteria and the shop.
Address: Las Palmas, Wilhelminakade 332, 3072 AR Rotterdam
Image © Martin Schoeller
After so much cultural fun, it is time again to think about foodstuff. Cross the Rijnhaven bridge to visit the Fenix Food Factory.
#8 Fenix Food Factory Katendrecht
The Deliplein in the Katendrecht district is the new hotspot of Rotterdam, especially the Fenix Food Factory is hip and happening. Here, in an old harbour warehouse, you will find craft beer brewers, Moroccan snacks, coffee roasters, cheese makers, booksellers and much more.
After all this enjoyment, it is now time for a challenge. Which is: Take a picture of the iconic Erasmus Bridge.
The Erasmus Bridge connects the ‘Kop van Zuid’ district with the centre on the north side of the river. Popularly, the bridge is also called the Swan. You can do fantastic things on and off this bridge. For example, you can walk, cycle or drive over the bridge. Or do as I do, make at least 73 pictures and conclude that you have to return to Rotterdam because none of the pictures taken does justice to the beauty of the structure.
And now that we are enjoying beauty, walk half a mile to the Leuvehaven.
#10 De Verwoeste Stad & #11 De Brandlijn
On Plein 1940, at the Leuvehaven next to the Maritime Museum stands the statue, “the ruined city” of Ossip Zadkine. He made the bronze following the bombing of Rotterdam by the Nazis. The statue symbolizes the heart of Rotterdam that was lost during the bombing.
The artwork really lets you dwell on the horrors of the war, especially after seeing photographs of Rotterdam Centre before and just after WWII. In the words of Zadkine himself:
“The image wants to embody the human suffering that a city had to undergo that, with God’s grace, wanted to live and flourish like a forest, a cry of disgust for the inhuman cruelty of this corpse.”
To get an idea of the extent of the devastation, follow the fireline.
The fireline is the border along the destruction caused by the bombardment of 1940
Rotterdam. The fireline is marked with lights in the ground, featuring flames depicting the silhouettes of the burning city, a Heinkel He-111 bomber and the above-mentioned image of Ossip Zadkine.
Now let’s go back a bit further in time, with a visit to Witte de With.
#12 Witte de With & #13 Coffeeshops
The man Witte de With is known in the Netherlands as a naval hero, in every other country, he would have been known as a pirate (see the attack on the Spanish silver fleet). Never mind this. We, the Dutch are happy with all the richness he stole from the Spanish, who before had stolen the goods from the Native Americans. Anyway, nowadays Rotterdam is rightly proud of the former red light district named after Witte because it is a buzzing street with art galleries, cafes, restaurants, shops and terraces.
And whilst in this neighbourhood, try your next challenge.
Look for a coffee shop. Not to smoke weed, I would never recommend that, because this is a family-friendly blog. No, the intention is to grab the concept of a coffee shop.
So for starters, you are not actually meant to drink coffee at a coffee shop (see #2). This type of shop is intended to score hashish. Yes, that is legal in the Netherlands. Well, perhaps not completely legal, but it is tolerated. So no, it is not allowed according to the letter of the law, but we use it anyway and that is okay, as long as you possess no more than 5 grams.
Of course, not everybody is a tolerant as the Dutch, which has some unexpected advantages for the shop owners. Since the sale of weed is actually prohibited according to the EU, the owner does not have to pay sales tax. However, income tax is levied on coffee shops.
All common sense, right?
Incidentally, growing weed, unlike for your own use, is also illegal, therefore suppliers don’t exist. Indeed hard drugs are forbidden and no you cannot buy alcohol here, because a coffee shop does not have an alcohol license. The sale of alcoholic beverages would, therefore, be illegal. Hence, no alcohol.
After this challenge, it is time again for a snack and a drink. Indeed, I am seeing a recurrent theme in this story. That probably also explains the ten kilos from point #3.
Back to the route, in the same Witte de Withstraat where you went looking for a coffee shop, you can also find restaurant and hotel Bazar.
#14 Hotel & Restaurant Bazar
I’ve visited Bazar several times since the beginning of this century since I had to visit the local hospital on a couple of times. The hospital happens to be on the corner of the Witte de Withstraat. A convenient place to sleep before a hospital visit (we came from far far away) and/or afterwards to eat, because Bazar is really the nicest restaurant in Rotterdam. Most dishes on the menu come from the Middle East and North Africa. All meat is halal.
The restaurant opens for breakfast at 8 o’clock in the morning (€ 9.90), which consists of a thousand holes pancake, fresh orange juice, coffee or tea, yoghurt with fresh fruit, honey, a boiled egg, cheese (Turkish) bread and all kinds of exotic spreads.
But you can also enjoy lunch or al fresco dining on the terrace. Take, for example, an appetizer for € 6.75 pp consisting of olives, smoked almonds, falafel, fried chicken wings and a few more spreads with Baklava (€ 4.90). Combine this with a glass of wine and a coffee and you have eaten well for about 15 Euros.
The food is enjoyed amidst a decor with oriental lamps and brightly coloured furniture, a real visual delight. Moreover, the hotel has a hotel with 27 rooms that are decorated in Eastern, African and South American atmospheres. All rooms are equipped with television, telephone and a minibar with soft drinks.
My African style room has a wooden floor, comfortable bed and spacious closet. There is also a separate shower and toilet, but they forgot to build a door separating the bathroom from the rest. In my case, that is unimportant, since I am alone in the room, but if I had shared the accommodation with a friend I would have liked to have had a bit more privacy, especially given the limited amount of toilets in the rest of the building (2 ladies’ toilets in the restaurant ).
For the rest, the room is top notch.
Unfortunately, the hotel closes on 16 September 2018. The reason for this is that the hotel is in need of renovation. In addition, the lack of space played a role due to increasing number of guests. The owners are looking for a new location, but that may take some time before the doors open again.
As soon as I know more, I will update this blog. The restaurant, however, remains open.
A Hotel-Restaurant Bazar Rotterdam, Witte de Withstraat 16, 3012 BP Rotterdam
T +31 10 206 5151
Incidentally, the Bazar website also needs a renovation, but do not let that stop you from visiting. Hopefully, the site will also be modernized soon.
In addition to Bazar, you can also eat very nicely indeed at Oliva.
#15 Restaurant Oliva
Oliva is an Italian restaurant, opposite Bazar. Here too, the food is tasty, but in a different price range. You can eat à la carte or take a three / four / five-course menu (€ 37.00 / € 44.00 / € 49.00). The menu with fish is super tasty, the accompanying Sicilian Catarratto wine is delicious, but not cheap (€ 5.25 per glass).
Bread, olives and oil are included in the price. A jug of water costs € 1.50 and a coffee € 2.50. All in all, the meal sets us back a bit over fifty Euros per person.
For more ‘food’ with a touch of art, continue your walk for about a mile to the market hall.
The Markthal in the form of a horseshoe is a building with a market hall, apartments, parking garage, restaurants and shops. The ceiling, the size of two football fields, also serves as a work of art entitled “Horn of Plenty”.
From the hall, you have a view of two architectural highlights, namely the Blaaktoren or “the pencil” and the cube houses.
The cube houses are 38 cube-shaped pile dwellings and 13 company cubes near the Markthal and Blaak. This ‘Blaakse Bos’ was designed by Piet Blom. Mind you, what Rotterdammers will forget to tell you, is that these are a variant of the previously built cube houses in Helmond (south of the country).
Most houses are privately owned and therefore not public, but you can view the kijkkubus and/or spend the night in another cube.
After this small architectural trip, it is time to return to my favourite theme: food. Go to the fish market.
The Marriott Hotel, opposite the Central Station, regularly holds a ‘fish market’ in collaboration with Schmidt Zeevis, the best fishmonger in town. When weather allows the cook prepares fish for you on a wood fire or a Green Egg. The Fresh Fish Market is available in various themes:
- North Sea fish
- Mediterranean fish
- Shrimp & lobster (surcharge € 12.50)
The Fresh Fish Market can be reserved for 40 people or more at € 39.50 pp excluding drinks. It is an all you can eat concept (but classy) and the wood-cooked Corvina is truly the best fish I’ve ever eaten.
A. Rotterdam Marriott Hotel Weena 686 | T. 010 430 2218
You can also sleep at the Marriott, for prices and availability click here.
We, humans, are not the only seafood lovers; the local birds are also keen on fish. You will see plenty of the feathered kind in the city centre.
If you look around, you see all kinds of water birds. Grebes, geese, ducks, but also larger birds such as herons, storks and swans. Find a bench, enjoy the birds and relax.
Finally, when you are completely ‘Zen’ go shopping. Start at Chinatown
#20 Chinatown & #21 Shop till you drop
Chinatown is a Chinese neighbourhood, the largest in the Netherlands. Here not only Chinese people live, but also many Dutch, Antilleans, Surinamese and Africans. The Chinese neighbourhood is located along the Kruisplein, Schouwburgplein, West Kruiskade, Diergaardesingel, Mauritsweg and the Westersingel.
Be sure to stop by at Queenie Liu, a Chinese bakery on the Westersingel for deliciously strangely coloured pastries.
Finally, pay Santa Claus a tribute; visit the two largest department stores, Hudson’s Bay and the Bijenkorf in the centre of Rotterdam to spend your last pennies.
* Rotterdammerer: Dutch word for an inhabitant of Rotterdam
With thanks to Rotterdam Pages, Marriott Hotel, Hotel Bazar, Traverse and the Fotomuseum for their hospitality and cooperation.
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